Photo-Illustration: The Strategist; Photos: Oset Babür-Winter.
We’re in the midst of a roll-neck renaissance, thanks in part to Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, with versions from many brands in pastels, poppy reds, nautical stripes (true to its maritime origins), shaker rib, cable, and even delicate pointelle. With spring finally here, it felt like the right time to sift through the options and find the right piece or two to invest in, because if you ask me, shoulder season is this sweater’s time to shine.
My personal criteria included 100 percent cotton composition, a length that looked cute when worn with barrel-leg pants and looser denim, and a soft knit. It should be front-tuck friendly but not have so much fabric that I look messy if I don’t tuck the sweater in. I’m not necessarily opposed to spending over $150 on a cotton sweater, but beyond that price point, I expect to see something special, whether that’s in the design or the fabric. I wear T-shirts under most of my sweaters to cut down on washing, so layering comfortably over my go-to Gap VintageSoft tees was also critical; I’m five feet, six inches and generally take a small in sweaters, though I checked the sizing chart for each of the brands below, and sized down to an extra-small for several of these for a slightly more polished look.
Ultimately, I tried 11 cotton roll-neck sweaters ranging from $50 to $400 and found that even in the simplest silhouette, there’s a ton of variety.
An heirloom-quality option. The cotton stays soft after washing, and the collar is just right.
The most chic one. It almost feels like cashmere and hits perfectly on my waist.
The most affordable option, and surprisingly great. Its length and weight are ideal.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
I had high hopes for Alex Mill’s new-this-season roll-neck, especially as I own a few other wardrobe staples from the brand. But the knit didn’t feel as substantial as I’d want from an almost-$200 cotton sweater, and the side slits at the hem didn’t do much for me from a visual or fit perspective. The rolled cuffs without any ribbing felt too loose, and I’m pretty sure they’d bag out more than I’d want them to over time. The cable stitching around the raglan sleeve was a thoughtful touch, though.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
One of my earrings popped out of my earlobe while I tried to force this Abercrombie number over my head, which hasn’t happened to me since my college days of trying to squeeze into a bandage dress. I took an XS based on the brand’s size chart, but I don’t think sizing up to a small would’ve made things better, because while the length was fine, the cuffs and hem were too tight, causing the body of the sweater to puff out in an unflattering way. The collar had a nice, substantial roll to it but also was high enough to reach turtleneck territory, which wasn’t what I was looking for.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
This sweater felt like a rougher cotton-linen blend, even though it was 100 percent cotton. The collar sat fairly low while still comfortably hiding my white T-shirt underneath, but the knit was pretty open (especially at the seams between the chest and arms), and, as I feared, the sweater lost a fair bit of shape after one wash on the delicate cycle (and got even scratchier upon air-drying). Last but not least, it had this weird cuff that starts up at the mid-forearm, which kind of reminded me of those pants everyone wore in the early aughts that zipped off to become shorts.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
If you like a cable knit and want to try the roll-neck trend for less than $40, then this sweater might be a safe way in. For me, even though the body fit true to size, the drop sleeves felt way too loose and only became more so after a wash. The collar didn’t read as much roll-neck as it did turtleneck. I also couldn’t find the light-green marl in stores or online before it sold out, but I think I’d like it more than the white colorway.
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Yes
If I could own a blanket made of the same fabric this sweater is made out of, it would be the only blanket I’d ever reach for. It feels so plush that I immediately checked the tag to make sure there wasn’t some kind of synthetic fabric involved (it’s 100 percent organic cotton). The gray and cream alternating stitching makes this piece look as expensive as it feels. Sadly, the fit from the bust down was a bit shapeless for my taste (even at an XS), and the drop sleeves didn’t help. It also ran long, which made for too baggy a look with jeans. But ten out of ten on composition, especially for chillier days!
Photos: Retailer; Author.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
I’m delighted with how much fun J.Crew has had with this otherwise tried-and-true silhouette, and I think we can all agree that it’s the brand most associated with this kind of sweater today. I own several of these, and my favorite is, without a doubt, the sailor-inspired number made in collaboration with Tanner Fletcher (which sold out upon release but is now available again). The crochet detailing on its cuffs and hem makes it feel incredibly special, and I love the jaunty necktie. My only criticism of J.Crew’s roll-necks overall is that they’re thicker than I prefer — the red marl knit kept me downright toasty on the subway, and for a sweater I associate more with fall and spring than the depths of winter, it’s not quite what I’d reach for regularly for in-between temperatures. I’d also recommend sizing not one but two full sizes down, especially if you have a shorter torso.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
I buy most of my basics, from denim to sundresses to T-shirts, as well as my 6-month-old daughter’s clothes, from the Gap. This sweater was the most lightweight of the bunch I tried, and I’ll definitely layer it over a sleeveless shirt on summer evenings, especially in a size up. It’s just the right weight to drape over your shoulders. I did find that the collar was a little too wide and low and thought the knit could be softer, especially after washing and air-drying. That said, it’s a solid value for the price (especially during one of Gap’s many sales).
Photos: Reatiler; Author.
Photos: Reatiler; Author.
I aspire to be the kind of person who looks cute on long-haul travel days — that person would probably own a few Monterey sweaters. It was the longest of the options I tried, and it looked great over black leggings. The rolled funnel-style collar is definitely something I’d be grateful for on a chilly flight. Unfortunately, I felt the exposed seams on the arms looked a bit like I’d put the garment on inside out, and I felt like the boxier fit didn’t quite play well with my mostly looser-cut jeans, which, at $400, was a deal-breaker. I did love that it came in lots of fun colorways and knits like pointelle and cotton glitter, so if budget weren’t a question, I’d collect these.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
I have a red barn coat from L.L.Bean that I bought in 2013, and I still wear it. This sweater is destined to have a similar life span in my closet; the cotton stayed soft after washing, plus the collar had the perfect height and roll — not too loosey-goosey, and not too tight. I opted for the regular length in a size XS for a more fitted look, which still lay comfortably over a basic white tee, but I could also see myself sizing up. I’m used to thinking of L.L.Bean having more of an oversize, generous cut, so I wasn’t sure about the length — it hit at a surprisingly flattering above-hip spot that didn’t read as cropped on my average-height frame. The navy-and-white bird’s-eye stitching felt almost handmade in quality.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
With generous ribbing around the cuffs and hem, La Ligne’s cropped roll-neck is what I’d envision a fisherwoman would wear to dine on caviar and bluefin tuna at Le Bernardin. The tight-gauge knit felt butter-soft, almost like a cashmere blend. I also loved how the collar has no ribbing between the body of the sweater and the neckline, making for a comfortable fit that also looked sleek. It had a vertical seam down the back that made the piece feel more polished and fitted. La Ligne makes a full-length version of the Marina, but on me, this was the rare sweater I didn’t feel any urge to half-tuck into jeans or my dressier silk pants.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
Photos: Retailer; Author.
I wasn’t sure what to expect from the most affordable roll-neck I found, but I was pleasantly surprised. The knit is dense and soft, and the cuffs and hem have what looks like a more refined-looking half-fisherman rib that would feel appropriate on a much pricier sweater. The sweater runs true to size and is a flattering length — on me, it’s just long enough that I would happily wear it both with and without a front tuck. I also like that the neck is the perfect height to hide an undershirt without feeling constricting. The hem doesn’t have the roll that some people might want from this style, but I personally prefer the look of the thicker rib hem and set-in sleeves, especially to pair with trousers or satin pants as opposed to jeans.
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