Like a beacon in the fog, cheery yellow lemons brighten winter meals, countertops and one’s outlook on life. As cherished as a summer garden tomato, lemons in winter are abundant now. Whether you prefer the thin-skinned, sweeter Meyer variety, or the brusque straightforward Eureka or Lisbon with its bitter pith, stock up on lemons and lemon recipes while they’re in season and enjoy a citrus burst of flavor. I can’t imagine cooking without lemons.
According to Alice Waters, California chefs favor Meyer lemons — rounder than regular lemons with golden orangey-yellow skin that has a distinctive floral fragrance they are less acidic, sweeter, juicier and more thin-skinned than a Eureka lemon with considerably less white bitter pith. They will grow wherever temperatures rarely fall below 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you’re lucky there may be a Meyer lemon tree or two in your neighborhood with a generous neighbor anxious to share the winter crop. They also show up in the stores but are not as hardy and commercially viable as Eurekas or Lisbons.
Take advantage of lemon’s bright tart flavor with a classic “Bake-Sale” lemon bar — lemon paired with a buttery shortbread crust in this recipe from Deb Perelman of Smitten Kitchen. Using a whole lemon, peel, flesh and juice is what makes this one especially lemony. I prefer Meyer lemons for this, but either variety will work.
Whole lemon bars
Crust ingredients:
• 2 sticks unsalted butter
• ½ cup granulated sugar
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
Filling ingredients:
• 1 average-size lemon, about 4.5 ounces, rinsed and dried
• 1 ½ cups granulated sugar
• 1 stick unsalted butter, cut into chunks
• 4 large eggs
• 2 tablespoons cornstarch
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• Powdered sugar for dusting
Directions for the crust: butter a 9-by-13 inch baking dish and set aside. You can also line it with parchment — leaving extended tabs to grab onto for easier removal and set aside. Add the butter and granulated sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and combine until light and fluffy. In a separate bowl, combine the flour and salt and slowly add to the butter mixture until just combined. Put the dough into the prepared baking dish and press, making sure the dough comes up the sides of the dish around the edges about ½ inch. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake the crust until lightly browned — 15-20 minutes. Cool on a wire rack. Leave the oven on.
For the lemon filling: Cut the lemon in half and slice the lemon halves into thin wheels; remove any seeds. Toss the lemon wheels, (with flesh and peel), granulated sugar and chunks of butter into the bowl of a food processor. Process, scraping down the sides as needed, until the lemon is thoroughly pureed. Add the eggs, cornstarch and salt and pulse until the batter is smooth. Pour over the prepared crust.
Bake until the filling is set, 35-40 minutes. You can test by bumping the pan a little; it should only jiggle slightly. The point at which the filling is set is usually also when it starts to get very light brown on top.
Let cool on a rack. Cut into rectangles and dust with powdered sugar. Make yourself a cup of afternoon tea and turn off the news.
Pappardelle with lemon and asparagus
An easy pasta supper by Christopher Idone.
Ingredients:
• 1-pound pencil-thin asparagus
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1-pound pappardelle pasta
• 2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• Juice and zest of 1 lemon, Meyer or Eureka
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Directions: Cutting on the diagonal, trim the tough ends of the asparagus and cut into 3 or 4 even pieces. In a non-reactive pot of lightly salted, boiling water, cook the asparagus for 2 minutes or until just crisp. Blanch in cold running water and drain.
In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and cream. Allow to cook at a low simmer.
Cook the Pappardelle in a pot of salted boiling water until al dente and drain well. While the pasta is boiling, heat the oil in a large skillet and add the blanched asparagus. Add the hot cream mixture and fold in the lemon juice. Season with pepper.
Add the drained pasta to the sauce and toss well. Divide among 4 or 5 warm soup plates and sprinkle with lemon zest. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese.
Those are my zesty ideas for enjoying the last few days of the longest January ever. Time to walk the dogs, prune the roses and get on with the business of life.
